Thursday, March 31, 2011

E's Top Things to do in Singapore

Usually when people talk about Singapore and what they like about it (ex-pats, specifically) one of the first things they talk about is the ability to travel around the region. Of course it is one of the very best parts of living here, and we have tried to take as much advantage of its convenient geographic location and relatively low cost airfare as possible. Most conversations about Singapore include the obligatory "the weather's GREAT and it's so easy to weekend in Bali/Thailand"

So I was a little bit taken a back last night when a newly arrived expat asked me, "so what do you recommend doing IN Singapore..."

Embarrassingly, I really had to think about it for a minute. This is not to say Singapore is devoid of its own unique activities, but its just not that normal to extol the entirely domestic attributes of the island nation. New arrivals usually want tips on your favorite vacation spots in Thailand or advice on the various discount air carriers. Sometimes they want your thoughts on the best places to get western amenities, but rarely do they want to discuss the domestic pleasures of living in the Sing. Possibly this is because the smallness of Singapore makes it pretty easy to figure out on your own in just a few days. When Dave and I first got here, we did the typical tourist thing, and took a ride on the local double-decker guided tour bus to see the highlights. Of course there are the ethnic neighborhoods: Little India, Chinatown, Arab Street; and the many fancy malls, and lots of tall buildings... but after just a few short hours on the bus, you have seen the whole country and felt pretty comfortable with what is on offer in town.

But Singapore is great- and there are a lot of things to do here, which may or may not be included in the top-10 lists on offer in your handy travel guide. When you are bogged down in "normal-life" it is easy to forget to take advantage of what makes Singapore so special. But given our impending departure, I have been thinking a lot more recently about what I love about this place and what I will miss, and the list is long! So, for anyone interested (including anyone who has the misfortune to arrive at this blog when you were actually googling for useful tourist information on this fine country) please find my Uniquely Singapore Top 6 List (come on, I like work for a living and didn't have time for a full 10!), in no particular order:

  1. Visit Mustafa Center in Little India: Now this is one of the things that is typically in your guide books list of activities in Little India. But its description as an Indian version of walmart doesn't actually make it sound that note-worthy or exciting. But really, its AMAZING. Its merit comes partially from the fact that walmart-esq stores are not prevalent in Singapore, so when you are living here, the opportunity to shop for diverse items under one (albiet large and mainly Indian) roof is pretty exciting. And they have almost anything you might need in life. Need a bandana and toy gun for a costume party? Done. Need a desk calendar? You got it. In the market for new luggage? They've got tons. Need groceries? No problem. Knock off DVDs? Duh, totally there. When someone asks where to find something in Singapore- the answer can always be Mustafa. I wish that I had checked this place out sooner when I was running around Singapore like a mad-woman trying to furnish our house with basic and impossible to find items like a plastic pitcher and pool towels. And I regret that I have only been there a few times, but it is a very enjoyable way to spend some time shopping. We went in with a pretty specific goal and left with BAGS of goodies. Its also neat to go at night and then stroll through the surrounding neighborhood. There are unsurprisingly rows upon rows of varied Indian cafes nearby and its a great place to grab a bit to eat to restore your energy after the shopping marathon.
  2. Pulau Ubin: Ubin also usually gets atleast a passing mention in guidebooks, but it deserves a lot more in my book. An island off the North East coast of Singapore, this quaint place is a world apart. I've blogged about it before, but it is 100% worth a visit, especially if you are living in the Sing and in need of a little nature to calm your soul. Sure you save your self a S$4.00 ferry ride and rent bikes in East Coast Park and ride around on the beach, but if you do it in Ubin instead you will not have to navigate around gangly chinese pre-teens learning how to rollerblade or witness too many local men frolicking about in speedos. For the price of the ferry ride you get a peaceful, verdant, isolated patch of nature with plenty of bike paths and very few visitors. We went at a time that I was nearly dying with desire to get out of the Sing for a weekend and it totally did the trick. Ubin gets two-thumbs up in my book.
  3. Satay Street: I actually don't think this one was listed in our book and we just happened upon it on our own one day. The delightful "Satay Street" can be found on a small road near Lau Pau Sat Festival Market which is magically converted from a normal metropolitan street during the day into a veritable satay mecca at dusk. When the road is closed, the air fills with smoke as vendors appear to hawk their meaty wears. Little plastic tables are procured to seat eager diners and on any given night there are hundreds of people there enjoying freshly bbq'd skewers of mutton, beef, pork and chicken fresh off the smoke filled grills of the vendors. The atmosphere is thick with gluttonous enjoyment of grilled meat and redolent of tasty peanut sauce. The hardest part is picking which stand to go to- there are tons. Luckily we are no experts on satay and usually pick our satay seller based on availability of seating in their territory. Once you are seated, women will come around and bring you pitchers of Tiger Beer while other waiters will come around and offer you a variety of Chinese food to supplement your satay. You can kick back and relax in the festive outdoor marketplace and wait for your heaping plate of sizzling meat-on-a-stick. Oh yea, and in addition to being fun and delicious, its also cheap. Bingo.
  4. The Shophouses of Tanjong Pagar: OK, I might be biased because this is my 'hood, but its a really underrated part of Singapore and has numerous activities on offer. Lots of people go to Chinatown proper, but not that many, especially tourists, make it to the lesser known but still very Chinese area of Tanjong Pagar. Nestled between the sea port, Chinatown and the CBD, this adorable little area is full of narrow streets of shop houses and offers plenty to the casual explorer. Starting at Tanjong Pagar Plaza, the fruit market is unbeatable for strange vibrant tropical fruits. Living nearby and frequenting this place for over a year now, I am still amazed at the things one can buy from the very amiable fruit sellers available 24 hours a day. From the market you can walk up Tanjong Pagar road and explore all the retail outlets that have cropped up in the traditional style shop houses. For some reason this area is a bridal store hotspot- but even for those who have less than a passing interest in all-things-wedding, these stores offer a glimpse in to the high drama that are Singaporean weddings. The crazy, and I mean, wild, nutty and crazy, dresses that adorn the windows can be very entertaining and sometimes frightening. Beyond wedding stores there are also plenty of cute bars and cafes to pop in to for a drink or a bite to eat. Our favorite bar, O'Bama's Irish Bar can be found in a shop house not too far from the main drag. Of course there are also the obligatory antiques shops and stores selling all manner of herbal remedies, and it wouldn't be Singapore unless there were a few reflexology shops as well. Maybe its because of the fact that there are few tourists, but this area has a lovely local feel and wondering around here is a very enjoyable low-key activity. The closer you get to the big Chinese and Indian temples on North Bridge Road the less authentic it feels, but between these major sites and the Plaza, there is tons to explore. We have lived here for a year and I still constantly find a new cute spot in the area to be impressed by. Do your self a favor and skip the malls for a day and check out TP instead.
  5. Robertson Quay: It's bigger flashier brothers Clarke Quay and Boat Quay get all the attention, but for more local ex-pat experience, I head to the Rob. Don't get me wrong, both Clarke and Boat serve their entertainment purposes, but the bright colors and plastic art decco design of Clarke, not to mention the hoards of inebriated tourists, gives me a headache, and I consider having to a walk down gauntlet at Boat to be akin to high pressure sales hell. This is not to say I haven't enjoyed hanging out at both- but you get much more bang (and piece of mind) for your buck at Robertson Quay. Located just far enough down the river that most tourists don't fathom its existence, the cheerful and cafe laden Robertson Walk is just about my idea of perfect in Singapore. There are lots of cuisines to choose from and plenty of out door seating on offer. It gets rowdy, but not too rowdy, during soccer and cricket matches, and there are a number of good bars, but the feeling is decidedly mellower than its neighbors. I have also recently discovered that if you dare go past the comforts of Robertson Walk there is an additional strip of quay-side al fresco dining to be had at a number of very nice looking cafes. High on my to-do list this weekend is catch a meal down by the water at one of these new-found eateries. Heavily influenced by the abundant luxury condos located nearby, the vibe at Rob is deeply ex-pat and western food dominates, but its cosy and cute and gets my vote over its Quay competitors every time.
  6. Al Fresco at Arab Street/Bali Lane: You may be sensing that I have a penchant for eating outdoors, but with weather as spectacular as we get here in the Red Dot, I try to venture out of the air-con as much as possible, and the weather is particularly enjoyable once the relentless equatorial sun has called it a day. A lot of tourists visit Arab street but it is usually to gawk at the mosques and browse the stores selling Persian carpets. Some come for the varied middle eastern cuisine to be had, which also enjoy from time-to-time (try Cafe de Caire, the hummos is delish!). But the real treat in the Arab Quarter can be found on tiny Bali Lane. Home to a surprising number of eateries-cum-bars, almost all offer simple outdoor seating and affordable pitchers of beer. With the sweet scent of sheesha dancing in the warm tropical air and an array of music emerging from the depths of local bars, the sceen is set for a good night with friends. I can think of no better way to pass an relaxed evening than sitting outside, drinking cheap beer and sharing a flavored sheesha. For low key, affordable fun, look no further.
I can think of quite a few more, but I should be a productive human and do something like go to the gym instead of continuing my love letter to Singapore. Hope you enjoyed a quick glimpse in to my favorite Singapore activities. If anyone is actually reading this blog for advice on things-to-do in Singapore, feel free to give me a shout!

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